Choctaw Lace Necklace

Necklace can be worn only one or layer them most Mississippi Choctaws were about 3-5

1. Beading thread (Nymo size D thread - resist breaking better.)

2. I also like to us a "Big Eye" needle (any needle that will go through the size 11 seed bead will be ok).

3. 1 hank of seed beads size 10 or 11

4. 1 hank of bugle beads size 3.  

5. Thread wax

Instructions are for traditional way as they are made by Mississippi Choctaw. There is no "clasps" you attach necklace either with thin strip of rawhide or in Mississippi they use safety pins or ribbons.

• Measure out a long piece of thread about 40" (or what ever is comfortable for you to work with)

• Knot off one end, thread needle with other end (single strand of thread) Wax your thread with thread wax

Start by picking up 3 seed beads, 1 bugle, 3 seed, 1 bugle and then go back through the first 3 seed (this will make your loop where you will attach your necklace)

Now start stringing seed beads until your piece measures 23" ending with a loop like the first one you made. Instead of going back through 3 seed beads you will want to go through 5. This is the point that you will begin the lace pattern.

String 3 seed, 1 bugle, 3 seed, 1 bugle until you have 7 bugle (7 for a short, 9 for a medium and 13 for a long necklace). After the last bugle you will want to string 6 seed and then go back through the first seed bead (this will give you a decorative oval circle at the end. Now start back up. Starting with 1 bugle, 3 seed, 1 bugle 1 seed go through the middle seed from the previous row. This is what gives you the diamond design. Then 1 seed, 1 bugle, 3 seed, 1 bugle, 1 seed go through the middle seed bead from the other row. Continue this pattern until you have 7 bugle beads ending with 3 seed. Now count over 5 seed beads on the top row of seed beads that you strung, run your thread through that seed bead and then back down through the 3 seed beads.

Now you start with a bugle bead – 3 seed-1 bugle -1 seed go through the middle seed bead from the previous row. Then 1 seed – 1 bugle – 3 seed – 1 bugle – 1 seed going through the middle seed bead from the previous row. Continue this pattern throughout the necklace until you get to the other end of the top line of seed beads. Make your loop like when you began. Run the remaining thread on the needle back through the stringer of seed beads on top and cut off.

When you  run out of thread through out the making of your necklace cut another string of thread and square knot the two pieces together and continue your necklace.

Oklahoma Choctaw Ceremonial Dress

HOW TO SEW A CHOCTAW DRESS

1. Cut yoke, front and back, cut two of each.

2. Cut lower bodice or midriff, front and back. Cut two the same size.

3. Sleeve-length to waist. Tear: two cuffs, large enough to slip over hand; two waistbands, to go around your waist loosely plus 2"; 

Skirt: two panels with length desired from midcalf to floor;

Strips for ruffles for hem, skirt and yoke: Tear strips allowing for slight fullness, approximately 1 1/2 times the width of hem; strips for two panels of 44" material: hem ruffles 4" x 132". Cut bias strip 2" wide for neck, length depends on size of neckline; Strips for decorative trimmings 3/4" for triangle trim and 1/2" wide for narrow strips above trim. Cut strips with scissors. The strips are 132" long. Yoke is lined. Waistband is lined also. Trimmings should be of contrasting material. Trimmings on yoke, two rows; cuffs, one row; hem ruffles, one row; skirt, two rows. Wash dress by hand or on gentle cycle in washer. Dry on low heat or in shaded area so it won't fade. Do not store dress and moccasins together. 

1. Sew together shoulder, front and back of yoke. Same with lining.

2. Basting stitch on top and bottom of midriff for both back and front. Gather and fit onto yoke of back and front, sew through all materials. Optional, you may slip stitch lining. Hand baste sleeve opening of yoke and yoke lining.

3. It is now ready for decorative trim. When the trim is completed, sew yoke ruffles on. Sew strip of trimmings on ruffles at gathering line. Complete before going to next step.

4. Fit bias strip of material onto neckline, sew. 

5. Gather sleeve to fit cuff, stitch. Sew trim on cuff, complete.

6. Sew sleeve onto bodice (yoke and midriff), make gathering at top of sleeve, to fit yoke and midriff. Fold cuff and slip stitch.

7. Fit gathered midriff onto waist band and lining, baste, adjust if needed sew. Set aside.

8. Sew two panels for skirt together. Prepare opening in front or back sufficient to sew sipper in when dress is completed. Baste stitch top of skirt.

9. Sew together 3 strips for bottom ruffles. Make narrow hem. Sew trimming near hem line. Put basting stitch on top of ruffles but don't gather it until the trimming is completed. When completed, gather ruffles and sew onto bottom of skirt. Press.

10. Sew trimming just above stitching line of skirt through all materials. 

11. Sew 3 strips of ruffles on skirt. Make narrow hem. Baste stitch on top. No trimmings. Gather, and sew on skirt above trimmings. Sew strip of trimmings on gathering line. Complete trimmings.

12. At this point, the dress should be complete except for the zipper. Sew zipper. 

13. Use the same instructions for apron as dress.